How did shapewear—like Spanx and skims—go from underwear to high fashion?

“it’s unfortunate There’s a bad sense of humor in that nature,” Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Dr. Robert Ray told Women’s Wear Daily in 2007. The reality show “Dr. 90210” continued: “Even the thinnest women have love handles.” His then-new brand, Dr. Ray’s Shapewear, was envisioned to “help” women achieve that kind of slimming. At the time, shapewear—stretchy, often compressive lingerie designed to smooth out one’s figure—was a corrective device that was hidden under your regular clothing. Just as you wouldn’t go to work with pimple cream visible on your chin, you wouldn’t venture out with visible shapewear, or even discuss it. Dr. Ray’s quote from products in those days The doctor’s office did not respond to requests for comment.

In 2021, shapewear couldn’t be more visible. Not only do millions of American women rely on it as an underwear staple, but sporting it outside has emerged as an unexpected trend. Thanks in no small part to Skims, a shapewear company juggernaut worth $1.6 billion that Kim Kardashian West launched in 2019, compressive bodysuits, tops, and leggings have become incredibly popular as actual clothing. Huh. One of this summer’s most fashionable outfits for women was a high-neck shaped bodysuit in black, brown or beige, worn with a pair of jean cutoffs. And on TikTok, one can see Gen-Z followers of shapewear, clad in bodysuits and leggings, which are like so many sleek baby seals.